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By Julia Pond, Managing Editor
Except you went to Tuscany, ready for a revelation, last year, and basically met a bunch of British and American tourists looking for the same thing. Enter Piedmont, situated in Northwestern Italy, the region’s main city is Turin, and it’s one of Italy’s much less visited regions. The wine is some of the best in the world, and the scenery is insane (think small roads cutting through mountains of grapevines punctuated with their identifying rosebushes). Plus, the Slow Food movement, which is preserving Italian and international local food tradition, was birthed in the region. On a recent two week trip, I investigated the Slow Food trail and some of the region’s wine. Here are the highlights of destinations, and places to stay, eat and play. You can drunk dial me from the wineries later to say thank you.
Bra
Bra is the Slow Food mecca, with traces of the international movement that champions local, traditional food throughout the city.
L’Ombra della Collina
This beautiful B&B sits on a courtyard and is blessed with an incredibly courteous host, Giovanni. The rooms are all very comfortable and clean, and having the outside space, overlooked by a massive fig tree, was really special. Plus, you are on the same street as the Slow Food headquarters, so their HQ restaurant can basically become your local joint for the time you’re staying. An absolute pleasure all around.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
Osteria del Boccondivino
Don’t miss the chance to try Salsicce di Bra (RAW sausage) at the Slow Food HQ mecca restaurant. If you visit in spring or summer, the courtyard is a beautiful place to dine. With service that combines pride and care for their food with courteous attentiveness and like-the-back-of-their-hand knowledge, this is a lifetime highlight dining experience without being stuffy.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
Aperitivo in Consolle
Wait until Friday evening and watch the streets fill up with young Braidesi sampling drinks from outdoor stalls. The dancing starts about ten pm.
by: vasilisvg flickr – Courtesy: Gogobot
Asti
Asti is a lovely city which is the home of wines like Barbera d’Asti and Moscato d’Asti (I would skip spumante, personally). Its central piazza is large and square, perfect for a late night stroll.
Outside Asti is Cascina Vignole, a lovely agriturismo run by a German/Italian couple who also make their own delicious wine. It’s a great place to bring kids, as there’s a pool and plenty of outdoor space…they do have one apartment as well.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
Osteria del Diavolo
This slow food recognized osteria has Ligurian and Piedmont specialties. They recommend a different glass of wine with each menu item. They make incredible chick pea fritters which they serve with honey and lardo. So if you find yourself in Asti, you could do much, much worse.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
Barbaresco
Drive through this wine town and sample some amazing Barbaresco (made from Nebbiolo grapes) at the former church turned wine center. I believe Jesus would be proud.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
Acqui Terme
This thermal bath town is basically where to go to recover from too much wine, cheese and truffles. With two hot springs and a few good restaurants, it’s relaxed but has plenty of luxury to offer.
Grand Hotel Nuove Terme
Call ahead to book a place as by a certain time they fill up and are only open to guests of the hotel, or, just stay here – it’s beautiful and not expensive as fancy hotels go.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
La Bollente Distinguished by two spas (Lago delle Sorgenti and the ones at the Grand Hotel) Acqui Terme also has a ‘boiling’ piazza, where the fountain is fed by 70C water straight from the earth.
by: Julia P – Courtesy: Gogobot
And finally…
Barolo (where the eponymous and absolute most important Italian red is made) and Alba (truffle land + Barbera) are the two other can’t miss towns. When planning your trip, make sure to leave plenty of time for driving on the small roads with their switchbacks through mountainous vineyards (you’ll see tons to stop at – just make sure you do very light tasting or hire a driver!), and weave in some truffle action if you are able. Alba hosts the International white truffle fest each year, and Cascina Vignole holds a truffle hunting license – if you’re there in season you might be able to go along.
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Source: gogobot.com