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It’s 3am and the desire for fresh air over aircon propels me from my bed to the sliding doors of my oceanfront suite. A full moon bathes Surfers Paradise beach in low blue light and as I open the doors and absorb the relentless roar of the ocean, something below catches my eye. There’s movement on the beach – a couple of fitness junkies are jogging on the sand. Further back I can make out some walkers; there’s even a guy throwing a stick for a dog. It’s a strangely thrilling thing to do, walking on the beach at night, and in summer there’s only a brief window when this popular stretch empties and you can find anything like solitude. These active nocturnals have the right idea, I think, as I dive back under the covers.
Come 5am, when bright sun fills my room and I peer out again, surfers have colonised the waves and mums with prams are starting out on the foreshore path. The beach is busying up. This time I join them and not for the first time on this weekend visit I marvel at this spectacular stretch of sand and surf.
It’s easy to reduce the Gold Coast to simple principles: beaches, meter maids, theme parks, clubs, surfing, schoolies, crass excess. The true story, however, is of an ever-evolving region that’s pushing hard into the health and education sectors and making a serious play for a vibrant arts culture. This time next year the Commonwealth Games will be here and this has sparked a construction frenzy – $13.5 billion in new and planned infrastructure including world-class sporting and community facilities and a Games village comprising 1200 units in 18 buildings, all to be transformed into a new suburb when the Games are over.
It’s only from the air, on a Sea World Helicopters tour, that you can see the full scope of the work underway: the aquatic centre, the village, the stadium, the parklands and the upgrades. Residents will be left with some incredible facilities when the Games wagon rolls on and there’s so much excitement around the countdown to the April 4-15 event that I’m inspired to book tickets now.
Back on the ground, I stroll away from the beach, past the kebab stores and surf shops and find other subtle changes since my last visit eight years ago: a humming cafe culture, a craft beer “revolution’’ guaranteed to give a XXXX drinker the horrors, high-end shopping at the beautifully revamped Pacific Fair and many fine restaurants. The Gold Coast is not everyone’s cup of tea – in the past it hasn’t been mine either – but I spend my two days regretting that I’m not staying longer.
My base for the weekend is Soul Peppers, a 77-storey beachfront tower. My large, comfortable pad with a full-size kitchen has all the mod cons expected of a five-star hotel, but the real star is the location and that view. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide an irresistible ocean vista; you could while away hours watching the ever-changing life cycle of the beach.
And therein lies a dilemma. With a couple of hours to spare, do I set up on the balcony with a book? Get closer to the action in the hotel’s pool with its stunning ocean backdrop? Retreat to the steam and spa room? The surf is pumping and lifesavers have closed the beach, so I kick off the shoes and walk. If you haven’t been to the Goldie for a while, you’ll have forgotten just how impressive the beaches are here. Any time of day – or night.
• Perfect for: Anyone who needs convincing there’s glamour in the glitter strip.
• Must do: True gems are found off the beaten track so hop on the light rail or hire a bike to discover the distinct neighbourhoods that make up this region. For a different perspective, book a joy flight (seaworldhelicopters.com.au).
• Dining: For dinner, the degustation menu at Seaduction on level two of the Soul resort. For brunch, BSKT at Mermaid Beach – don’t miss the cocowhip breakfast bowl.
• Getting there: Gold Coast airport is about 22km south of the resort.
• Bottom line: One-bedroom ocean- front apartments from $302 a night; two-bedroom from $415 a night (both three-night minimum, until Sep 30).
Sоurсе: theaustralian.com.au
